As a sommelier there can be great pressure from the “top down”; restaurant management/owners, to run the beverage department as (often is the case) the main profit center. A mantra, to maintain the “industry standard” of costs, say 25-30%”PC” (or product cost) resounds the industry over. Now, this would drive me crazy as a sales person. I often would gently present the concept that if said industry standard were ignored, prices could drift lower and in turn sales might drift higher. Why not have a couple or table of four enjoy several bottle through the course of a great dinner, than to have their dining experienced hamstrung by exorbitant markups on the wine. I would say (yell), lower prices, sell more, take more money to the bank. Tell THAT to the owners!!

On the quality fron however, I’m not sure that I entirely agree. I feel that the average wine available btg is better than ever (acknowledging that that is a relative comment) . With only part attribution to the buyers doing the selecting and the other going to wine-makers all around the world making better and better wine at every price point.

On the issue of pricing, here’s an observation that I have made over the past year or so (post “crisis”?) that is driving me crazy: since when is a “glass” of wine around 4 ounces? That’s the trend that I have noticed. Its all about costs, but it is a smoke and mirror attempt at fooling patrons and maintaining or increasing prices: charge the same, just pour less. Uuurrrgh, and NOW the restaurant is more likely making 5x the cost of the bottle!!!!

The issue of bringing wine into restaurants has and will always be a thorny one here in the wine-producing state of California. I believe that it is far more common here than in any state in the nation, albeit the bain of the existence of many a wine directors (trying to maintain their department’s “industry standard” of costs!). I full take advantage of the culture here in CA; however i do want to go on record acknowledging that it is a tight-rope act. The patron must assume the responsibility of not penalizing the server/staff (by not purchasing a bottle, and thus not tipping or working in a restaurant that is liberal in its policies), ie tip well. And, i think the whole act should be viewed as a “privilege” not a “right” to bring a bottle to a restaurant; the former goes a long way to promote good relations between restaurants and those of us that bring bottles. I have friends that are guilty of the latter and I loath their behavior when dining.

I feel the “system” or wine-industry needs to be shaken up or dusted off in so many areas (eg – can we banter some time about the archaic three-tier system please?). So lets keep our voices heard as consumers and let the revolution commence!

We moved to Sydney a couple of years ago from London, and we find that we go to restaurants much more often, partly because a restaurant meal with excellent wine doesn’t break the bank.