The last Saturday in February has for some years been officially designated “Open That Bottle Night” and we plan to celebrate it again this year in the company of our friends Jenny,  Bonnie and Richard, Rosemary and Ken and Mary and Ron, who are hosting the gathering.

OTBN was invented by wine writers Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher to solve a problem that plagues many wine enthusiasts. Some wines are just too precious to open. For one reason or another we want to let them sit, waiting for a “special occasion.” As if opening an intriguing bottle isn’t special occasion enough! Go figure.

So, Dottie and John proposed, let’s just pick an arbitrary date, pull the cork, and celebrate. The wine doesn’t have to be old (although it might not be a bad idea to drink up older vintages if you have any) or expensive, either. It’s the thought that counts. Or the story that goes with the wine — I like “story wines” best of all.

I’m a big fan of OTBN because I see it as positive step. Wine enthusiasts do lots of silly things, as I point out in my forthcoming book Extreme Wine. We spit out good wines (at tasting events, where there are too many wines to even think of swallowing them all) and then slurp down mediocre ones (at weddings and receptions, etc.)

And whereas others suffer what Thorstein Veblen called “conspicuous consumption,” we sometimes stand out because of what we don’t drink (but could). No doubt about it: time to open that bottle.

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Update February 24, 2013. I thought you might be interested in the menu and wine list for our OTBN dinner last night. Try not to drool on your keyboard or tablet screen as you read this. (Note: I failed get the maker of the 1990 Riesling .)

Hors d’oeuvres: Smoked chicken and dried apricot terrine with a lemon caper sauce /  Smoked lamb loin with tarragon aioli served on toasted baguette / Pecorino cheese beignets with pink lady apple butter

• Gloria Ferrer Brut Sonoma

First course: Smoked salmon rosette, lemon cream, crispy brioche, shaved fennel and arugula with citrus olive oil

• 2010 Venge Vineyards Bacigalupi Vineyard Pinot Noir Russian River

Second course: Seared jumbo scallop with forbidden rice, avocado poblano butter, and roast bell pepper foam

• 2007 Joseph Drouhin Savigny Les Beaune “Talmettes” Premier Cru
• 2008 Domaine Drouhin Oregon Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley

Third course: Sunchoke and cauliflower puree with coriander cream

• 1990 Wehlener Sonnenuhr Riesling Auslese, Mosel
• 2008 Joseph Rosch Riesling Kabinett, Mosel

Fourth course: Poached lobster tail, lemon beurre fondue, stewed leeks, and caramelized anise

• 1996 Verget Puligny-Montrachet Les Enseigneres

• 1996 Chavet-Chouet Puligny Montrachet Premier Cru

Fifth course: Muscovy duck, braised red cabbage, roast pearl onions and bacon lardons, herb spätzle

• 1982 Gloria St Julien, Bordeaux
• 1998 Cuvee Vatican Chateauneuf du Pape
• 2000 Le Vieux Donjon Chateauneuf du Pape

All accompanied by Sue’s signature fresh-baked bread

Dessert: Bonnie’s famous chocolate dacquoise

• 2006 Cakebread Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

Afters: Fantasy of Spanish almonds, Italian hazelnuts, Turkish figs and dried apricots

• 2004 Dobogo Tokaji Aszu 6 Puttonyos

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James May seems to be an opponent of conspicuous non-consumption, as this clip from the wonderful BBC mini-series he made with Oz Clarke makes clear. Enjoy!

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