Designer Wine Glasses (and their Discontents)

Today’s Wine Economist column is inspired by sample wine glasses we received from the folks at Glasvin. Glasvin makes all sorts of hand-blown glassware, but the particular products they sent us were designed by Raj Parr, the famous sommelier, author, and winemaker. Our experience with these wine glasses has made us think a bit about what we want in and what we think about wine glasses generally. Here’s the story.

One Glass to Rule Them All?

The Raj glass was designed to be the one glass you need for wine. There are several universal glass designs on the market, some of them created by wine celebrities. We tried the glass when it arrived a couple of years ago and had mixed emotions about it. It was light and delicate, a thing of beauty: largish bowl, shortish stem, sort of like a tall snifter. Click here to see a video about the Raj glass.

Here’s what Glasvin said about the design:

• • Designed to taste and drink all wines – young and old, sparkling, white, pink, red and orange – objectively and expressively.
  • Designed to have a wide, snifter-like bowl that tapers to a narrow rim, for the purest expression of the vine.
  • The unique shape brings a wine’s aromas and texture into focus as they travel through the bowl.
  • The narrow rim drops the wine perfectly on the tip of the tongue. With a shorter stem (1.5”) and lower center of gravity, the RAJ Glass will stay upright, so you can move around the cellar, your kitchen while cooking, or get comfortable at home.

Interesting for wine tasting, we decided, but not what we wanted from wine drinking because it seemed to draw our attention more to the glass than the wine. And the short stem wasn’t always easy for us to grasp. We set them aside in the glass cabinet and have rarely used them. We liked the idea of these elegant glasses but, as the video explains, they just weren’t designed with us in mind.

A Daily Drinker?

Then earlier this summer we received a set of the new Parr glasses (shown below), which are part of the Glasvin GV Home collection. Still light and beautiful, these glasses are meant for daily use by a broader audience than the Raj glasses.

The Glasvin design literature had this description:

• • Designed in collaboration with Raj Parr
  • Part of the GV Home collection, Glasvin’s durable, elevated glassware line.
  • A universal bowl that highlights aroma, texture, and balance
  • Slightly thicker glass for increased durability
  • Handblown, lead-free, dishwasher safe

The Raj and Parr glasses are much alike to the casual observer, with largish bowl and narrow rim to concentrate aromas, but the Parr’s stem is a bit longer, which makes it easier to pick up and hold. Sue and I enjoyed using these, but still felt like they somehow drew our attention away from the wines as much as they enhanced them. They come out of the cabinet occasionally these days (mainly for white wines for some reason), but they haven’t become our daily drinkers.

De Gustibus Non Est Disputandum

Is the problem the glasses? Or is it us? To try to find out the answer to this question we invited two seasoned Wine Economist research assistants to lunch and had them try out the glasses throughout the meal. Their reaction was completely different. They loved the jewel-like qualities of the light glasses and thought they enjoyed the wine experience.

I found an informative video on the Glasvin website where Raj Parr explains exactly what he wanted to create with the Parr glass. You can view it here along with more information about the glass series. You and I might not be looking for the same things in a wine glass as Raj Parr, but no doubt it is useful to have someone so focused and passionate doing this work.

I guess wine glasses, like many things in the wine space, are a matter of taste and we should welcome a diversity of options. To each his (or her) own! Sue and I seem to use different types of glasses in different situations. Sometimes we break out the INAO tasting glasses, for example, and sometimes (pizza night!) we use simple juice glasses to drink our Costco-sourced Portuguese Red Blend wine.

Barriers to Entry

A problem with wine glasses, however, is that sometimes they can be one more barrier to entry for new consumers. Wine already has many disadvantages for anyone starting out. It usually comes in inconveniently large packaging that often requires special equipment (corkscrew) to access. There is a lot of waste (cork, capsule, bottle) that isn’t always easy to recycle. You are supposed to drink it at certain temperatures with certain foods.

And then there are the glasses. You need specialized glasses that you hold in a certain way and taste in a prescribed pattern. Yes, I know that it is all part of the mystery and romance of wine and I actually love the rituals as much as anyone. But I don’t blame the young person we met recently who, when faced with all these complications, just turned and walked away.

So two cheers for designer wine glasses like the Raj and the Parr that elevate the wine experience for the enthusiasts who like them. In fact, we seem to have added the Parr glasses to our regular rotation for white wines and Sue commented a couple of days ago that they were kind of growing on her.

But give a cheer, too, for rustic juice glasses (and other simple drinking vessels) that give pleasure to many and might present one less barrier to wine newbies.