Sketches of Spain is the title of the 1960 Miles Davis/Gil Evans album that deftly walks the line between classical and jazz genres, with Davis’s virtuosity shining throughout. Scroll down to the bottom of this column if you’ve never heard this great recording.
Sue and I have recently returned from a visit to Spain, where I spoke at the General Assembly of the Spanish Wine Federation (Federación Española del Vino or FEV), so Spain and Spanish wine are on my mind and I have been puzzling over how to write about our experiences and all that we learned. Such a big country! So many impressions! The Miles Davis album solved the puzzle.
Davis and Evans gave us a few powerful sketches of Spain and its music, not a detailed musical portrait, which would be impossible in the context of a ’60s-era 33-rpm vinyl recording. A perfect choice! In this and the next several weekly columns I will try to provide sketches of the Spanish wine industry, which I hope you will find useful, leaving a more detailed portrait for another time and place.
Sketch 1: The Spanish Wine Supertanker
They say that it is not easy to turn around a big ship because of all the momentum it has to continue on its path and this might be a good metaphor for Spain. Spain is certain big when it comes to wine. Spain has the largest area of vineyards of any country in the world and is the third largest wine-producing nation (after Italy and France). Spain produces nearly 70 percent more wine by volume than the United States, which is number four in the global wine table.
The Spanish wine industry has devoted enormous effort to changing wine market direction, investing in more productive vineyards planted to grape varieties like Tempranillo that are more attractive to global wine buyers, and in new or updated production facilities.
The wineries we visited have made the transition and are now sailing in the right direction. As I said to the General Assembly audience, it seems to me that Spain has all the pieces in place to succeed in the new global wine market environment that has emerged, where value matters much more than sheer volume. I am an optimist about Spanish wine. But I am also a realist …
Sketch 2: Breaking the Glass Ceiling
Improving Spanish wine is one thing (a good thing!), but achieving greater success in the global market is another because of reputational momentum. Spain’s wine reputation has not caught up with its reality in many markets. Citing data from a Nielsen Company survey of U.S. on-premises wine drinkers (thanks to Danny Brager for his help), I noted that Spain was stuck under a “glass ceiling” in terms of consumer perception.
Italy and France — these are the countries that American diners think of first when they consider imported wines. Spain, despite its status as the third largest producer, ranks far below with perception roughly on a par with Australia, Argentina, and Chile and only a bit above tiny New Zealand, which is number 14 on the world wine production table, lodged between Romania and Hungary.
Spanish producers would love to break through the glass ceiling to achieve market status of Italy and France, but — let’s face it — everyone wants to do that.
A more interesting question for Spain, I proposed, is why it does not rank higher above Argentina, Chile, and New Zealand. Do they make more wine than Spain? Better wine? Do they have better generic market promotion programs? The answer is no in each case. What do these much smaller countries have that Spain does not that allows them to punch so far above their weight? This got my audience thinking, which is always my intent.
Sketch 3: Spain at the Crossroads
Hard thinking is necessary because Spain’s wine industry is at a cross roads of sorts. A graph of domestic vs export sales of Spanish wine shows that an important line has been crossed. Domestic wine consumption continues to fall in Spain as in other Old World producer countries. The opponent is not so much France and Italy as spirits and beer and changing consumer habits generally.
Wine exports are rising and now exceed domestic sales. This is important since the industry would be in crisis if exports did not replace lost domestic purchases, but that doesn’t mean that slowly losing your most biggest market is not a cause for concern. It was rare for us to meet a wine producer in Spain who had as much as 50 percent domestic sales.
Global markets are congested and competition for high value sales will only increase when Brexit’s full impacts are finally felt. Reversing the decline of the domestic wine market is Spain’s next big challenge.
Fortunately, I think there is an realistic opportunity for domestic wine sales growth. Spain was hit very hard by global financial crisis and the austerity policies that followed in Europe. Only now, ten years after the crisis, is Spain’s gross domestic product approaching its pre-crisis level. A lost decade! No wonder exports have been the focus.
But growth has picked up in the Spanish economy and optimism is in the air, something Sue and I could feel on the streets of big cities and small towns alike. Beer is a tough opponent, but perhaps this is Spanish wine’s moment at home as well as abroad! More to follow in the weeks ahead.
Thank You Notes
Sue and I would like to send out big “thank you” notes to Pau, Susana, José Luis and Eduardo and everyone else at FEV and to all the people we met at the General Assembly in Valladolid.
FEV organized a series of winery visits for us in the two weeks following the General Assembly (I will report on this fieldwork in future columns) and we would like to thank everyone who took the time to meet with us and share their stories. Here is a list of the wineries we visited:
- Bodegas y Viñedos Viña Mayor
- Grupo Matarromera
- Pagos del Rey
- Abadia Retuerta Winery
- Marqués de Riscal
- Bodegas Montecillo
- Bodeas Berceo and Bodegas Manzanos
- Campo Viejo
- Finca Constacia
The Wine Economist will pause next week so that we can travel to Cyprus where I am giving a seminar on regional wine reputation and we are visiting wineries, and attending the annual Cyprus wine competition. Come back in two weeks for more sketches of the Spanish wine industry. In the mean time, here’s the original recording of Sketches of Spain. Enjoy!
Great comments, thank you. After four years of importing Spanish wine I am astounded at American sommeliers disposition (or lack thereof) towards Rioja specifically and Spain in general. In my opinion, Spain needs a few quality regions to lead the way and Rioja must be the forefront. Rioja is desperate for higher quality designation(s) within the DOCa – the top estates (mostly unknown in the US market) are, collectively, the world’s greatest, truly fine red wine values but their prices (demand) have not kept pace with their cousins; Barolo, Burgundy, or sister Bordeaux. I believe that once Rioja takes action, it will elevate all of Spain. Thank you very much for your comments and insight.
Interesting piece Mike – thank you. I run Devour Tours – a food and wine tour operator in Spain – and so take a keen interest in international perceptions about Spanish wine. For a variety of reasons (both historical and cultural) Spain has long struggled to promote its produce internationally, whether it’s wine, olive oil or jamón. But this is changing as the younger generation is more worldly, ambitious and speaks a higher level of English than their parents. So I’m expecting an upswing in the perceived value of Spanish wine on the international market. In terms of local consumption, here in Madrid I have seen a very clear swing back towards wine amongst people in their 20s and 30s. It’s as if it’s cool to drink wine again. I hope it continues!