Last week’s Wine Economist stressed the need to adapt to changing wine market conditions and to embrace innovations as part of that process. However, innovations are not always readily accepted (often rightly so). There is often the fear that change will simply ruin whatever good or service is being considered.

Curse of the Paperback Novel

The economist Paul Krugman likes to point to an innovation in the publishing industry that was initially met with fear and alarm. It will be the end of publishing and literature as we know it, critics said. What was the next big thing that got authors and publishers all worked up? No, it wasn’t the e-book, as you might guess. It was the paperback, which ended up vastly expanding the literature’s reach.

Paperbacks opened up a new world for book lovers. Packaging is one area where wine has embraced innovation, too, but slowly. Bag-in-box was once seen as only fit for inexpensive bottom-shelf wines, but now premium (which in this context means $4+ per bottle equivalent) 3-liter boxes are a hot commodity, one of the few growth categories in the U.S. market.

B-in-B and Beyond

Bag-in-box shows that wine packaging need not end with the traditional glass bottle, but how far can innovation go (without going too far)? My first glimpse of the possible future was back in 2007 when I wrote about two wines that were part of the Boisset portfolio back then. The innovation: extremely lightweight containers.

French Rabbit got my attention with its lightweight (40 grams for the 1-liter box) tetrapak container. The French Pinot Noir in the box was just fine and I liked the smaller sizes, too. Perfect for picnic, backpack, or boat. This kind of container is no longer unexpected, the innovation found its market, although the most recent sales data suggest that 1-liter boxes are not currently a growing category.

Le Tour de Vin

Boisset introduced me to another packaging innovation that did not catch on quickly: the plastic (or PET) bottle. The wine was a French Sauvignon Blanc brand called Yellow Jersey (a reference to the Tour de France leader’s signature shirt). The yellow bottle with a yellow label and screw-cap closure held a perfectly decent wine in its 56-gram container. A delightful bonus (which I did take advantage of) was that the empty bottle could be re-filled with water and then fit perfectly into a bicycle water bottle holder. What could be better? Seriously.

The idea of the PET wine bottle did not catch on, however, and it is easy to see why. Although it preserved the basic traditional wine bottle format, the lightweight turned some people off and many expressed concerns about the interaction between the wine and the bottle itself. I recently found a bottle producer with a PET product line and the recommended shelf life was 18 months. It was a brave (or forward-thinking) producer who took a chance putting wine in a bottle like that.

Enter changing attitudes and innovation. Lightweight wine bottles now have a broader following as environmental concerns have risen in importance and technology has advanced, too. I know of a couple of firms that are working on hybrid solutions that use lightweight PET for structure and a special internal coating to keep the wine from ever touching the PET itself. (This is similar in concept to the cans that hold canned wine, which have a liner to keep metal and wine from interacting.)

Blue Bin to Blue Bin

Blue Bin Wine from Ron Rubin Winery is the first of this next generation of wine bottles that I have seen on the market. The bottles, which are made by Amcor Rigid Packing, are made from rPET (recycled PET) and the bottles are themselves recyclable, but you put them in the plastics bin rather than the glass bin. The bottles are lined with Plasmax, a thin glass-like oxygen barrier. The Plasmax coating holds the wine, rPET holds the bottle, and everything is recyclable.

The shatterproof Blue Bin bottles weigh just 52 grams compared to 450 grams for a very lightweight glass bottle and 550 to 850 for standard glass bottles (the Wine Economist record for an empty wine bottle so far is 1218 grams). A full bottle of Blue Bin (812 grams on Sue’s precision scale) weighs less than many empty glass bottles.

It is easy to see the weight savings from adopting lighter-weight bottles, and there are additional advantages from efficient recycling. Recycled materials are used to make the bottles and the used bottle is easily recyclable, too. As you can see from the photo above, Blue Bin’s label doesn’t hide the recycling story behind this innovative wine.

The wine’s name comes from the ubiquitous blue recycle bins that Rubin and his team saw everywhere they looked in California. The material for the bottles comes from blue bins and that’s where the empty bottles go, too.

Ron Rubin is also the driving force behind River Road Family Vineyards and Winery in Sebastapol (certified sustainable and B Corp and recently recognized by Sonoma CountyWinegrowers for their commitment to sustainability ) and that’s where the wines (Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, and Rosé) come from.  Initial distribution is targeted at California, Texas, and Florida plus through the winey website.

How was the wine? Sue and I opened a bottle of the Sauvignon Blanc at our annual Open That Bottle Night gathering. The bottle itself was the main topic of conversation. It was so different from any of the others on the table. But while we talked about the bottle, the wine in our glasses steadily disappeared. The consensus was that the wine showed well, especially considering its very reasonable price point (about $13-$15 depending on where you buy it).

Who will buy a wine like Blue Bin? Well, as with Yellow Jersey a few years ago, there are niche markets that will be attracted by the obvious utility of the lightweight and unbreakable bottles for outdoor activities of various sorts. Our tasting group thought that lots of wines and lots of occasions might be well suited to this packaging, with obvious environmental benefits.

But I think there is another audience that will be attracted to the environmental benefits as well as the convenience factor. Restaurant wine-by-the-glass programs might be interested in the easy recycling element. Fine wine? I don’t see DRC and Screaming Eagle in a bottle like this for now. But wine drinkers, especially younger people concerned about the impact of consumption choices on the environment, just might find Blue Bin irresistible.

Blue Bin wines are a big step in the right direction for wine innovation. Can’t wait to see what’s next.