Is Wine a Good Value?

These are challenging times for many (but not all) consumers. Rising housing and interest costs are squeezing budgets. Pandemic-era stimulus check bank balances are going or gone. Student loan payments, paused for a time, are back again.

Faced with tight budget constraints and rising debt costs, consumers are struggling to cut costs without sacrificing their standard of living, which means they are more and more focused on value for money. Perhaps the most obvious indicator of this trend is the surge in purchases of store-brand supermarket products at the expense of similar but more expensive name-brand products. But, as the financial news reports, the changes in buying patterns go far beyond that.

Do You Want Fries with That?

Two recent news reports suggest that consumers want value, not just lower prices. A Wall Street Journal story about casual dining restaurant chain Red Robin (see article link below), noted a two-prong strategy to get diners back. Step one was to improve food quality. Step two was to expand the number of “bottomless” offerings so that there is a sense of abundance and value, even when (like me) diners rarely ask for free extra servings. Menu prices have not declined, but business traffic is up. Value sells

The Economist newspaper’s “Schumpeter” business columnist recently compared fast-food king McDonald’s value strategy with casual Mexican chain Chipotle (see article link below). McDonald’s has struggled in the post-pandemic era and recently introduced $5 meal deals in an attempt to regain its lost reputation for good value.  Chipotle, on the other hand, has actually raised its prices. Which strategy do you think would be more successful?

Chipotle wins, at least according to the Economist columnist, who argues that Chipotle is better value despite being more than twice as expensive as the McDonald’s meal deal. Maybe, as the column notes, the demographics of the two food chains are too different to make a comparison valid. But perhaps restaurant dinners look beyond price in calculating value. Schumpeter reports having two generous meals from his Chipotle order, but not wanting to even finish the salty McDonald’s $5 meal.

Price vs Value?

If value for money is a rising priority for many consumers it is fair to ask if wine provides good value? Or is wine’s value proposition one of the reasons the industry is facing headwinds these days?

This is an awkward question because different people have different ideas of what makes something a good value and also because wine comes in so many different price/quality combinations. When I asked my university students to do an economic analysis of the wine wall at a local Safeway store, for example, they found wines as cheap as about $2 per bottle equivalent and as expensive as about $225 per fancy glass bottle.

How can you generalize when there is such wide variation? One way is to look at average cost per serving of wine and other alcoholic beverages. Every study that I have seen suggests that wine is more expensive per serving than either beer or spirits using average price data. So there is reason to believe that consumers might see a value problem with wine.

The way that wine is packaged is a value problem, too. Many consumers hesitate to open a 750 ml wine bottle for only one or two glasses because they are afraid that what’s left will quickly go bad, making the bottle purchase an even worse deal than the per-serving averages suggest. (By comparison, beer comes in single-serving containers and spirits can keep for a long time, so they don’t suffer the same wasted money problem.)

Well, you might say, if this wine is too expensive, trade down to cheaper brands. Indeed, wine can be very cheap (per bottle or per serving) if that’s what you really want. But, good value isn’t the same as cheap price, as McDonald’s problems show.

And, indeed, consumers have for several years moved away from inexpensive wines, calculating perhaps that they are not worth even the low price charged. The premiumization trend has plateaued, too, suggesting that perhaps higher price doesn’t always mean better value.

It’s in the Bag?

If consumers are feeling the budget squeeze (and many are) and looking for value in wine as they are, apparently, in fast food and casual dining, where will they go? Some will abandon wine and indeed cut ties with beverage alcohol, generally. Some will drink less but focus on quality when they do. Others will try to find the spot on the wine wall with the best value proposition. Where is that?

NIQ market data reported in Wine Business Monthly finds only a few bright spots on the wine wall, one of them is for “premium” 3-liter bag-in-box wine selling at about $5 per bottle equivalent.  Sales of wine in this format have held up pretty well while sales of glass bottle wine at about the same price point have fallen. Maybe that Red Robin sense of abundance applies here, too.

Clearly, the economic side of the wine market equation, with its focus on disposable income, consumer budget constraints, and value for money, is not the whole story when it comes to today’s challenging environment. But I am convinced that it is part of the story and one, perhaps, that should be taken more seriously. The people who are having trouble selling other consumer goods have got the message.

What is wine’s value proposition? Food (or maybe drink) for thought?

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Blake Gray’s recent Wine-Searcher.com column is one example of what a value-driven wine marketing strategy might look like.

Here are links to the articles referenced above.

Economist newspaper “What Chipotle and McDonald’s say about the consumer slowdown.”

Wall Street Journal “Bottomless Fries, Floats, and Broccoli. One restaurant chain’s bid to get diners.

4 responses

  1. While Chipotle raised prices, we also need to remember a little while ago when Brian Niccol first took over Chipotle they dropped the animal welfare meat standards claiming there just isn’t enough supply. They didn’t drop the price of any menu items. Same price less value. But they cemented the emotional value of “better animal welfare standards” first. We still feel better about eating at Chipotle than McDonalds.

    Wine is a lot more emotionally complicated than fast food but that is changing thanks to the big three. As Mike noted you can spend $225 for a bottle at Safeway. You can easily break $1000 at any fine wine retailer. The difference is that the $1000 bottle is likely to be nothing more than the alchemy of the earth, the weather and the winemaker.

    Just like the wine in the bottle, the emotional reaction to wine is a lot more complex. Historically, wine triggered good feelings from religion. I mean does the first miracle ever make you sad? Then there is family. While my generation may be the last to sit at the table for meals regularly, wine was a part of those dinners. Who doesn’t look back fondly on Mom’s fried chicken and wine in a carafe? Wine is a part of the meal and has been for generations in my family. Now most US families won’t let kids have wine at the table.

    Then there is the gift value. Who remembers the first time someone gave you a bag of McDonalds? What about a bottle of wine you got as a gift? Even if that wine is a mid level that has been gobbled up by the big three, you probably still have a soft spot.

    The Wine industry has a lot of Data so you can manipulate it to give you the answer you are looking for. At the core there are a lot of forces squeezing the wine industry, for instance new-prohibitionism. Like a TV commercial this is where I say “But wait, there is more”.

    The Shanken Group is probably one to thank for the “premiumization” of wine more than any other singe entity. They elevated wine to an investor grade product adding another facet to the value people feel with wine. While most of us think about finance as a logical effort, investing in wine is emotional gambling, but WS convinced us to feel good about it and invest more. WS gave the tech world something non-tech to talk about.

    A C-Suite friend of mine was giving me advice on moving up in the C-Suite world, and rare wine was the subject. He found out about my WSET award and said the right wine still gets attention. He also said each event has a price point, but no one buys into a higher social circle with 3L box wines. He was holding a $1000 bottle.

    The concentration of wealth in California has also clouded the crystal ball. Tech money in Napa, and massive wealth in Southern California have allowed Napa and Temecula to explode in price without a corresponding increase in quality. No other industry gets away with it. There is so much data it is easy to baffle people with numbers in the wine business.

    At the end of the day, the wine business can be just as complex as a great bottle of wine. Even though the animal welfare standards at Chipotle are gone, we feel better eating at Chipotle than McDonalds. Likewise, Rombauer will carry its cache long after the chemists at the big G have mastered the flavor profile and “standardized it”.

  2. I think some of the more successful store brands (Kirkland, Trader Joes) are pursuing the Chipotle strategy. Both are providing value by taking out the Tier 2 cost, and negotiating for decent (usually) to very good (sometimes) product. There is an ecosystem of influencers bubbling up around both brands, to help guide consumers. By my palate, I believe they are both getting better at the game, too. Curious if other retailers (Safeway, Whole Foods) will see similar success.

  3. As an economics nerd, I absolutely love blog posts like this one. Hope you can make more of these types of entries.

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