Why do so many people love Champagne (and other sparkling wines, too)? Is it the way they taste? Or is it the way they make you feel? Here are a few thoughts inspired by a message in a wine glass.
Not Necessarily Clear as Glass
As regular Wine Economist readers know, Sue and I have this thing about specialized wine glasses and wine paraphernalia generally. Wine is an everyday drink for us and we try not to take it (and ourselves) too seriously. The purpose of wine is to make life better. Why complicate that?
But it is important to have an open mind, so we experimented for a while with specialized tasting glasses designed by Raj Parr and manufactured by Glasvin. As reported on The Wine Economist, we found them pretty, but a bit awkward. They didn’t really improve our wine experience very much, although, to be fair, they always seemed to delight guests. Maybe it was just us?
Then, a couple of months ago, we started experimenting with a Glasvin product called The Universal , and we surprised ourselves. We really enjoy using it. It’s a drinking glass rather than a tasting glass, of course, which suits our preference. It is super lightweight and pretty to look at. They have become our first-choice glassware for everyday enjoyment (we still rely on our OG INAO tasting glasses for analytical work.)
Hold Me, Touch Me, Taste Me, Feel Me
So here’s the thing. Does the wine taste better in nicer glasses than it does in regular wine glasses? I know that the type and shape of a wine glass is supposed to affect perception, but I have never paid too much attention to that side. I know that the Raj Parr tasting glasses had some effect just because they were designed for you to focus on particular elements rather than just enjoying the wine.
After some thought (and a few more glasses of wine), I’ve decided that it doesn’t matter to me if the glass makes the wine taste better. The point is that using these nicer glasses makes drinking the wine feel better. It elevates our experience (your mileage may vary).
This is not a very important observation on its own, but the idea of tasting versus feeling might be worth considering in a broader context. Wine descriptions often tell consumers how the wine tastes, sometimes in intimidating detail. This is useful information, but is it what buyers want to know? Or would it be better to suggest how the wine might make you feel?
Think about the last time you entered a friend’s home or attended an event where a glass of sparkling wine was quickly put in your hand. How did that make you feel? I’m pretty sure it felt good. How did it taste? You might not be able to remember because the feelings of welcome and relaxation were so strong.
I wonder if the feeling effect explains the success of some celebrity wines? Do you think it just feels good to connect through wine to someone you know, like or admire? Sue and I often remark that we especially enjoy wines with a personal connection, usually to the winemaking family.
Don’t Jump the Shark
If this is true, then I wonder why so many wine producers go out of their way to ignore the feeling effect? Some labels feature tasting notes or technical data suitable for a WSET study guide. Not a lot of feeling there. Now I don’t think you should tell people how they should feel when they drink your wine. But the right language can set an emotional framework that consumers can fill in themselves when they lift the glass.
I think emotion is an obvious part of the wine experience and it seems to me that wine producers don’t always pay enough attention to this in telling their stories. That said, I don’t want to push too hard on this point or some desperate winemaker might start crafting products for specific emotions. Moody Malbec. Silly Sauvignon. Passionate Pinot. Who knows where that might lead?
That’s the message I found in our new wine glasses. I wonder what the corkscrew has to say?
During my studies we did a wine glass tasting experiment drinking a Riesling from 5 different Riedel glasses — we didn’t know which glass was the consumer glass vs. the professional level, and to the shock of most in the class we could smell and taste a difference between them.
Also during our Paris pop-up wine bar we had Zalto glasses available, and while we didn’t do any aroma or taste experiment, most Parisians positively reacted immediately compared to the standard wine glasses in Paris. I think the Zalto glasses encouraged the customers to appreciate the wine a bit more, swirl it around and watch it dance a little longer. Perhaps similar to looking at a Cartier Bresson photo in an Ikea frame vs. a museum quality frame. The glass or the frame add to the experience.
The corkscrew told a convoluted tale but was very open about it!
The experience of wine is so connected to the taste of wine. The right glass, the right pairing or the right space elevates our perceptions of quality. Recently in Croatia in a stunningly modern tasting room the wine was tasting great. It had a bit of brettnomicies in it but we all still drank it. On a boat, on a dock with a brat with a steak, it is all about how the experience makes you feel. Great insight Mike.
Wine marketers know that tasking a the winery elevates the experience. While in France I got in the habit of drinking table wine out of jam jars like the locals do. It wasn’t the glass it was the company.
Back home my wife got tired of the jam jar glasses and tossed them out. She said that “wine deserves a proper glass”.
When I am learning about a wine for the first time, I try it in the ISO standard glasses used by CSM-A for exams, and then again in a reidel designed for the wine. After that, I am happy with the jam jars which are now banned in my house.
At the end of the day I think we can safely argue that wine is a part of a total experience, not just a “drink”. It is the wine, the glass, the place and the company all summed up into a memory that can never be repeated no matter how hard we try.
We’ve found that feelings are extraordinarily important when talking to consumers about wine. Emotions evoke experiences, stories, and thoughts of sharing a glass of wine in an extraordinary place or moment. It’s well known that we make decisions emotionally first and then intellectualize them. It’s why we’ve used questions about feelings, experiences, and stories with our clients for years, and we segment consumers by those factors. Consumers can relate. There’s a place to talk about taste, and it’s in the winery. Otherwise, they want to remember how they felt enjoying a particular wine while traveling or just sitting with friends and reminiscing. Those are the things that get people motivated to buy another bottle.
Have you done the Riedel challenge?
I love the glasses but ..
Expensive ish, fragile, all good glasses are.
But the real basic, mass produced can definitely upgrade the wine experience.