Here are brief reviews of two new books that tell the stories of two previously under-appreciated wines that have come into their own, but the books do so in completely different ways. Prosecco Superiore first, then  Rosé from Provence.

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The Story of Prosecco Superiore by Susan H. Gordon is a serious book about a serious wine. The first assertion is not hard to appreciate. Derived from Gordon’s doctoral thesis, the book is thick with the signs of academic research: useful and interesting footnotes, an impressive bibliography, and the sort of price tag that takes the breath away from non-academics (professors and their students are hardened by experience when it comes to the cost of these books).

Gordon has seriously thought about how she wants her readers to understand the story (or stories, I think) of Prosecco Superiore. Thus the traditional “Wines of fill-in-the-place” organization is nowhere to be found. Yes, we learn about grape varieties, climate, geography, production methods, and so forth (a.k.a. the usual suspects of wine books), but interwoven and in the context of other factors, especially the history of the people, the region, and Italy itself.

Gordon is very clear. She wants you to work, not be a passive passenger, so what she’s written is more of a workbook than a simple guide. Are you up for the challenge? Good, then you can begin.

Seriously Prosecco

My second assertion (that Prosecco Superiore is a serious wine) may take more convincing and it might be necessary to pour yourself a glass of the wine at some point just to be sure. Prosecco wines have been one of the great wine market success stories of the 21st century, but most of the attention has been focused on Prosecco DOC wines that come from vineyards on the plains. Less notice is given (perhaps because less wine is produced?) to the Prosecco Superiore DOCG wines that come from hillside vineyards in the zones that were the historical birthplace of Prosecco.

I never turn down a glass of Prosecco DOC because even the relatively simple ones, often with a touch of sweetness, are refreshing. Interestingly, many of the best-selling wines are either distributed by U.S. wine firms (Gallo, for example, has market leader La Marca in its stable) or bottled by Italian wineries as private label wines for U.S. wineries (Cupcake Vineyards Prosecco, for example, or the popular Kirkland Signature wine). The Prosecco Superiore you find is more likely to be made by the winery on the label.

Sue and I have been fortunate to visit the Prosecco Superiore region on several occasions (I’ve given lectures at the famous wine school in Conegliano) and we have come to appreciate the differences between Prosecco and Prosecco Superiore (structure and minerality among other things) and among the DOCG wines from different zones. It has been a fascinating study with an unexpected side-effect: happiness. Prosecco Superiore always makes me smile!

Take a Walk

Gordon’s book covers a lot of territory. The original subtitle, we are told, was “Histories, Geographies, Languages, Topographies, Personalities, and Typologies of Prosecco Superiore.” That’s a lot to think about.

But the organizing principle is easy to grasp and enjoy: let’s take a walk. A walk through history. A walk with Antonio Carpenè, without whom Prosecco would not exist. A walk in the Prosecco hills. A walk through the streets of Conegliano. Walking is good exercise, but more importantly, it is done at a pace that lets you notice and appreciate what you see and hear and think about the connections.

Walking is a good thing and walking with Susan H. Gordon as she (and you) encounter all these people, places, things, ideas, and forces is quite an interesting and worthwhile experience.

Like Prosecco Superiore, this book is a serious undertaking. But, also like Prosecco Superiore, it makes you smile the smile that comes from understanding something more serious than you thought it was.

The Book of Rosé: The Provençal Vineyard That Revolutionized Rosé By Whispering Angel and Château D’Esclans (photos by Martin Bruno and text by Lindsey Tramuta).

Is Rosé a serious wine? I suppose it depends on the Rosé and on the wine drinker, but there was a time when “serious” wine people tended to look down their noses at pink “swimming pool” wines. (Even today there are Rosé wines with swimming pool brand names or label graphics.)

A Hundred Bucks?

That situation has changed and a reason why is the subject of this book, Sacha Lichine and his Chateau d’Esclan wines. Lichine (son of the famous Alexis Lichine, the “Pope of Wine,” who did so much to develop wine market and culture in the United States) embraced the Rosé challenge almost 20 years ago. Working with Bordeaux’s famous  Patrick Léon and taking advantage of seriously old vines on the property, Lichine produced a wine called Garrus, which sold for more than $100.

A hundred bucks for a Rosé? He must have been crazy. But the impact was as dramatic as the price. Like Angelo Gaja, who raised prices and expectations in Italy years before, Lichine’s shockingly high price forced buyers to reconsider their prejudices and stimulated growers and other producers to up their game in terms of quality.

Whispering Angel

Old vine Garrus is still the top of the line, but Whispering Angel is perhaps the most popular of the portfolio of Provence Rosé wines on offer by Chateau d’Esclan. My favorite book chapter follows Lichine and colleagues as they set out to market Whispering Angel to a skeptical worldwide market. It is clear that Lichine and team knew who they wanted to drink their wines, where,  and on what occasions, with an eye to creating a luxury brand. They then set out purposefully and patiently to achieve this goal. Required reading for wine marketing students.

The Story of Prosecco Superiore demands a lot of its readers. The Book of Rosé is more relaxed. Indeed, it presents itself as a large, heavy, beautifully illustrated coffee-table book with some text woven in. Many will choose to own (or give) it for the photographs alone. But the text, although brief, tells an interesting story that is worth reading.

Two wines, two stories, two ways of telling it. Both worth your attention.