The Spanish edition of Cynthia Howson and Pierre Ly’s 2020 book Adventures on the China Wine Trail has just been published by Tolosa Wine Books.
Aventuras en la Ruta del Vino de China
Aventuras en la Ruta del Vino de China is a first-person account of the natural, social, political, and economic forces that shaped the Chinese wine industry and the people who made it all happen. I have always thought of it as the perfect complement to Suzanne Mustacichi’s 2015 best-seller Thirsty Dragon.
Why a Spanish edition of Adventures on the China Wine Trail? I think part of it was personal, which aligns very well with the way that Howson and Ly tell the Chinese wine story. They met Spanish publisher Lluis Tolosa when they were all in China for the Gourmand International Awards ceremonies. He saw an opening for a book that would help Spanish readers understand the Chinese market and the forces driving wine there. Tolosa tells the story in his prologue to the Spanish edition.
Spanish Wine Goes to China
Spain is the third largest producer of wine in the world and is often the largest exporter by volume. Bulk wine sales to other European countries make up much of the trade. Spain ranks #4 on the China wine import table behind France, Chile, and Italy. (Australia ranked higher in this list before China imposed prohibitive tariffs on Aussie wine.)
Spanish producers were early entrants into China and have been key in the growth of that market. Torres China, for example, was founded in 1997 and today imports into China and distributes more than 400 wines from 13 countries including, of course, the wine of Familia Torres but also a list of iconic brands from Spain and around the world.
The giant Spanish wine producer Felix Solis was another early entrant to the Chinese market. It established the Shanghai Félix Solís Winery Corporation in 1998 and, if I can trust my memory, boldly built a facility to accommodate bulk wine imports that was an important factor in the expansion of Spanish wine in China.
Although the Chinese wine market has receded from the peaks of the pre-covid boom years, it remains an important opportunity for Spanish producers in a wine world where opportunities are not thick on the ground.
A Celebration of China and Spain
We wanted to celebrate the China-Spain wine trail with Cynthia and Pierre, but how? Their January 2024 book tour will include stops in many regions of Spain, including Rioja. Sue and I proposed a dinner pairing some Rioja wines we’ve been saving for a good occasion with a Chinese dinner. The pairing makes sense since the Rioja industry was jump-started by French winemakers looking for red wines to replace the Bordeaux wines that were lost to phylloxera. And, of course, China and Bordeaux have a longstanding friendship. Connect the dots and Rioja to China it is!
Pierre and Cynthia prepared some of their favorite dishes from their trips to China and opened a delightful Grace Vineyards traditional method Angelina Brut Reserve 100% Chardonnay sparkling wine from the 2009 vintage. Grace Vineyards is one of China’s top producers and its wines never disappoint.
Sue and I provided the Spanish connection with two Rioja wines: a Marques de Murrieta Finca Ygay Rioja Reserva and Ramon Bilbaos Mirto. We chose the wines to represent two sides of Rioja today. The Finca Ygay is a traditional blend of four grape varieties, with Tempranillo in the lead with 80 percent. The Mirto, on the other hand, is 100 percent Tempranillo.
When Sue and I visited Rioja a few years ago we found that some winemakers were excited to make 100% varietal Rioja wines while others favored a traditional approach. I don’t think we found a consensus in Rioja any more than you might find one in, say, Chianti today about the merits of 100% Sangiovese.
Both Rioja wines paired well with our Chinese meal. Sue likes the rounder Marques de Murrieta best with an eggplant dish and the more structured Ramon Bilbao Mirto with pork belly. The bright acidity of both wines made them easy to pair with the rich Chinese cuisine. It is easy to understand why Spanish wines like these would be popular in China. And Spanish consumers might want to experiment with Chinese-inspired tapas, for example, to match up with their fine wines. China and Spain. Mix and match!
Adventures on the Spain-China wine trail.
Pierre will be in Spain in January to promote the new book and to inform Spanish audiences about the development of the Chinese wine industry. There will be events at bookstores and universities, but the one that I wish I could attend will be at the Marques de Atrio winery.
Why is this particular event so interesting? Because the Spanish winery is owned by ChangYu Pioneer Wine Company, one of China’s most important producers. ChangYu saw the potential for Spanish wine in China and so acquired this historic winery. The Spain-China wine trail is real and Aventuras en la Ruta del Vino de China is a perfect way to begin to understand it.