The Three Faces of the American Wine Dilemma

We live in a time when problems we face are complicated but many of the answers proposed to address them are very simple.  I am suspicious of simple answers to complicated questions, both in general (this was the theme of my 2005 book Globaloney) and when it comes to the American wine industry.

Draining America’s Wine Lake

Wine Economist readers already know about the American wine industry’s general over-supply problem.  Despite several short harvests in a row in California, wine inventories remain very high and prices are falling. As Jeff Bitter pointed out at the Unified Wine & Grape Symposium last month, many thousands of acres of wine grape vines have been removed and more grubbing up is necessary before supply has been downsized to balance with demand. Similar adjustments are taking place throughout the world of wine.

I was interested to learn from Jeff that California’s Central Valley is perhaps closer to equilibrium than, say, the Central Coast. This is in part because growers in the valley can more effectively switch to alternative crops, which cushions the blow of vine removal. Indeed, many large growers already farm multiple types of crops, so the switch is a change of ratio and proportion, not a move into a new line of business.

Some growers would like to “furlough” their vineyards, to pause production until the market has stabilized. But, at least in some areas, this is made difficult because of water use regulations. Water rights can be withdrawn if the land is not actively farmed for several years. So in some areas, where alternative crops are not feasible and water rights are tightly controlled, vineyard removals or furloughs are hard to manage. No wonder there are reports of some vineyards simply abandoned! (I have also heard of one vineyard that was offered at a zero-dollar lease to anyone who would keep production going and, therefore, keep water rights safe.)

Unemployment: Cyclical, Structural, Frictional

The wine market situation is complicated in other ways, too. Both Glenn Proctor and Danny Brager talked about the problem at the Unified in terms of structural versus cyclical adjustments and this got me to thinking about the way economists explain unemployment as the interaction of three forces. I will explain briefly since I think these concepts apply to wine, too.

Cyclical unemployment is caused by cycles in the economy. Workers lose their jobs as firms scale back during a recession, for example, and gain them back (or get other jobs) when economic growth returns. Macroeconomic stimulus (tax cuts, interest rate reductions) are tools of choice to address cyclical unemployment.

Structural unemployment is joblessness due to changes in the essential structure of the economy. Changing patterns of trade, environmental shifts, and technological change are some of the causes of structural unemployment. Some newspaper employees, for example, suffer structural unemployment as demand shifts from physical to digital platforms for information, entertainment, and advertising. One of the concerns about artificial intelligence technology is that it might contribute to structural unemployment.

It is significant that policies designed to address cyclical unemployment such as interest rate cuts will do little to correct (and could even accelerate) structural unemployment problems.

Finally there is frictional unemployment, which is joblessness caused by inefficiencies in the labor market, as happens when there are jobs available in one city and jobless workers in another city, but information inefficiencies, high transaction costs, and other barriers prevent them from productive connection. The current housing market, with higher mortgage interest rates and historically high prices, is one source of frictional unemployment, for example. Job market policies tailored to either address cyclical or structural unemployment problems may have little impact on frictional unemployment. There aren’t many easy answers to complicated questions.

The American Wine Dilemma

These concepts apply to the wine industry in America and other countries today. The wine market has long been subject to medium-term (7- to 10-year) cycles, for example, although “wild card” events such as the COVID pandemic have distorted the pattern. Some wine industry folks have never seen the bottom of the wine cycle before. The fact that the previous “boom” part of the cycle was characterized by a ratchet-up of wine prices (premiumization) makes the down cycle more difficult to predict.

There are also structural changes at work. Demographic transition (baby boomer rise and fall) is part of the situation, but so is the structural shift in attitudes and behavior towards beverage alcohol generally.  There also seems to be a structural shift in consumer preferences away from red wines toward white wines. It is hard to predict how and when these structural forces might run their course and when or whether they might reverse.

Finally, there are frictional concerns that take many forms around the world, but here in the United States are perhaps most apparent in wine distribution and retailing. Wine distribution pipelines have narrowed in recent years. I have written that every industry organizes itself around its most important inefficiency (or “bottleneck,” if you know what I mean). Distribution is wine’s bottleneck, not growing grapes or making wine. The fact that this bottleneck has narrowed is significant and could well reshape the industry broadly.

The Age of Uncertainty

If you are looking for a simple answer to the dilemma of American wine, you are not going to find it here. The point, as stated above, is that complicated questions seldom have simple answers. Complexity leads to uncertainty because each of the cyclical, structural, and frictional forces is difficult to predict and their dynamic interaction is sometimes best modeled by chaos theory

So, as I wrote here a few weeks ago, we have entered the Age of Uncertainty. In economics, uncertainty equals risk and risk discourages investment, innovation, and growth. Not what the wine industry needs at this moment. But understanding uncertainty and risk is better than charging ahead in ignorance.

The Wine Economist 1000

The Wine Economist first appeared on May 29, 2007, with a report called “Bottling the 2005 at Fielding Hills Winery,” which compared the volunteer bottling line to Adam Smith’s famous pin factory. Incredibly, The Wine Economist is still publishing its weekly newsletter after all these years and last week’s post was the 1000th in the series.

The  Wine Economist has averaged about 1000 words per column or 50,000 words per year, which is roughly equivalent to about two full-length books every three years.

The book comparison is relevant because we have often used the weekly columns to work out ideas that eventually reappeared in the five wine business books that we have written over this time span.

The original idea was simply to take advantage of the blog format to work out ideas in public and get feedback from a broad group including consumers, industry professionals, and other academics. This worked better than I might have expected.

It would be fair to say that I didn’t know what I was doing when I started down this path. For example, I used to say that The Wine Economist wasn’t a blog because its articles are too long and it only appears about once a week. Hardly what you’d expect from a traditional web-log (a.k.a. blog). But then it received the Gourmand International award for Best Wine Blog, so I guess that is what it is.

In the same way, I used to say that I am not a wine writer, just an economist who writes about the wine business. But then one of my books received the Gourmand international award for Best Wine Writing.  I don’t know what to say.

Looking ahead, there is a lot of work left to be done and Sue and I are looking forward to more adventures and the opportunity to meet and get to know interesting people. The wine world is always growing, shifting, changing. We are excited to see where the next 100, 500, or maybe 1000 Wine Economist articles take us.

Cheers to our readers. And thanks!

American Wine 2025: Field Notes from the Unified Symposium

Sue and I recently attended the Unified Wine & Grape Symposium in Sacramento, California, North America’s largest wine industry gathering. Attendance was about 10,000 for the meetings, seminars, and the massive trade show. The event is simply too big to summarize, so we jotted down field notes instead to give you a sense of the action. Here, in no particular order, are some of our observations.

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Wine industry trends. White is the new red. Stable sales are the new growth. Wine sales are down in terms of both volume and value. The number of wineries in the U.S. actually fell. Most of the decrease was in the category of “virtual wineries,” which sell wine that is actually made by other companies under contract (a surprisingly common practice).

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Tough times for the nurseries that supply grape plants. One vendor said that if the best year was 100, the current status is about 20. Vineyard acreage in California and elsewhere continues to fall with more removals to come.  This is part of a global trend.

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The luncheon speaker was Alecia Moore, better known by her professional name Pink (later that week she performed along with other artists including Stevie Wonder, Billie Eilish, Lady Gaga, and others at the FireAid benefit concert).  What’s her wine connection? As she put it, she is a “celebrity winemaker,” but not a marketing play as is sometimes the case. Her Two Wolves vineyard and winery in Santa Barbara County is a serious operation and significant commitment. Many in the audience were inspired by her story and obvious enthusiasm.

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Heard on the floor of the trade show from a first-timer: “How do you take it all in? There’s so much!” Answer: A piece at a time.

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The Unified is an opportunity for those in the wine industry to meet with friends and colleagues. Lots of hugging, hand-shaking, back-slapping, high-fiving. Wine is a people business and this is the place to make and maintain personal and business relationships.

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Bottle weight. Producers are opting for lower-weight bottles, and looking to source them domestically. Shipping costs and schedules — and their uncertainties —  are big factors. Heavier bottles are harder to move around. So, shipping and schlepping. Some producers are opting for lighter-weight bottles to maintain a price point. Question: Do consumers (still) think that bottle weight indicates wine quality?

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Multilingual wine. The Unified is designed for the California wine industry, but it is an international event. Languages heard: American English, Canadian English, Australian English, British English, Spanish, Italian, French. No doubt there were even more. There are several Spanish-language sessions.

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The locavore paradox. Many restaurants highlight their locavore credentials. Farm to table. Locally sourced meat and produce. Think global, eat local. But how many feature local wines? Aren’t wines the ultimate product of place? Shouldn’t they have a place on the locavore table?

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There is not much wine actually consumed during the day at the Unified (the nights are a different matter) because it is a business meeting and trade fair, not a consumer-tasting event. We had wine at the keynote luncheon and there were  tastings sponsored by regional wine associations on the trade show floor on Wednesday afternoon. This year we focused on New Mexico’s wine industry, which is celebrating its tradition of fine sparkling wines by hosting the first Global Sparkling Wine Summit this summer. Great wine. Learned a lot.

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Sauvignon Blanc. Each year the organizers choose a particular wine grape variety to showcase and this time around it was Sauvignon Blanc. Aromatic white wines are popular right now and Sauvignon Blanc is doing well. The audience heard from several winemakers and tasted wines from California and Washington State.

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Sue never gets tired of walking the trade show floor. So many interesting people, products, and services. It is the American wine industry, deconstructed, and brought together in one very large room.

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New York Times wine critic Eric Asimov moderated a session on the challenge of telling wine’s story in the context of strong headwinds such as the WHO’s finding that no level of alcohol consumption is safe. But is this a challenge or an opportunity? Maybe the wine industry needed a nudge to get its act together and make the case for wine and not just individual wine brands or regions.

Cru Cerrati and Ruchè: Piemonte Wine’s Past, Present, & Future

What do you remember about the hit 1985 film “Back to the Future”? Doc? Marty? The “Chuck Berry” scene? How could you forget that time-traveling DeLorean sports car?

I don’t know if anyone thinks much about the film’s deeper messages anymore, but the idea that the future is somehow buried in the past is a theme that has long been of interest. It shows up in wine in various guises. Here are two “Back to the Future” stories from the Piemonte region of Northern Italy.

The Return of Cerrati in the Land of Barolo

The Rossi Cairo family has been making wine, especially Gavi DOCG,  at their biodynamic farm, La Raia, since 2002. They began a “Back to the Future” journey in 2015 when they expanded their vision to Tenuta Cucco in the prime Serralunga region where the Nebbiolo grape and Barolo wine are firmly rooted.

Tenuta Cucco presented the Rossi Cairo family an opportunity and a challenge in the form of the Cerrati vineyard. Cru Cerrati was well known and respected in the past, receiving special note in Renato Ratti’s Map of Barolo in 1971, for example, and even in the 1990 Slow Food wine atlas of the Langhe, but its glory faded over the years until Piero Rossi Cairo, working with La Raia winemaker Clara Milani, determined to convert the project to organic viticulture and to revive the vineyard and the reputation of the Cerrati zone.

Sue and I enjoyed the opportunity to taste the wines and participate in a Zoom call with Piero Rossi Cairo and Clara Milani. About 80 percent of Tenuta Cucco’s production is exported; the United States is the biggest single market.

The two estate vineyards total about 20 hectares and total production is about 70,000 bottles (6000 cases) each year including  white wines (Chardonnay), a traditional method sparkling Pinot Nero, Rosé, and, of course, the reds. The Barolo DOCG Serralunga d’Alba, a blend of grapes from the two vineyards, is the main focus with production of 25,000 to 40,000  bottles depending on the year. Only about 2400 bottles of single-vineyard Barolo wines from Cerrati and Bricco Voghera are produced each  year. And 5000 to 8000 bottles of a fresh and fruity Langhe DOCG Nebbiolo are made.

The “no wood” Langhe Nebbiolo was simply delicious, with beautiful color, light body, soft tannins, intense aroma, and complex fruit flavors. If you are looking for a “Baby Barolo,” this isn’t it. But who wouldn’t enjoy a wine like this with cheese and salami or a light pasta? And the Serralunga d’Alba was delicious, too, a great culinary wine because of its medium body and nice acidity. The single-vineyard products are philosopher wines, to be appreciated at a relaxed pace. We haven’t decided which one we like best, but are very much enjoying the opportunity to study them.

Ruchè Renaissance

Wines made from the Ruchè grape variety are full of contradictions. Wine Grapes tells us that “Varietal wines tend to be headily scented, often with aromas of roses. They can be spicy and the tannins so marked that the wines can sometimes leave a bitter aftertaste.”  Roses, spicy, bitter — not something you find every day.

Sue and I first stumbled on Ruchè back in 2011 when we attended a food and wine festival in Moncalvo, near Asti. As I wrote then, “I had never heard of Ruchè and honestly didn’t know what it might be until I happened upon the stand of the Castagnole Monferrato group. They were cooking with Ruchè, marinating fruit in Ruchè and selling it by the glass — they were obviously very proud of their local wine. I had to try it and it was great. Suddenly I saw Ruchè everywhere (a common experience with a new discovery) and enjoyed a bottle at dinner in Asti that  night.”

Ruchè very nearly disappeared at one point as attention focused on market-friendly grapes such as Barbera and Nebbiolo. As Ian D’Agata explains in the chapter on Ruchè  Italy’s Native Wine Grape Terroirs, Don Giacomo Cauda, Castagnole Monferato’s town priest, was obsessed with Ruchè, studied it, collected specimens from scattered small plots,  and promoted Ruchè as the region’s signature wine. Ruchè di Castagnole Monferrato received DOC recognition in 1987 and was elevated to DOCG in 2010, putting it up among the elite of the Italian wine world. A long climb from near-extinction to the summit in just 50 years.

But DOCG recognition does not automatically translate into sales. Almost everyone around Castagnole Monferrato probably drinks Ruché, but almost no one does anywhere else. Selling an unfamiliar wine like Ruché requires creativity and determination. So we were intrigued to learn that a local importer, Mallard Libations in Woodinville, Washington) has taken up the challenge so that those who know Ruché  will have an opportunity to enjoy it and hopefully help spread the word.

We’ve started our new Ruchè research with the Ferraris Agricola Ruchè di Castagnoble Monferrato Riserva DOCG, which featured medium body, a memorable nose, and more depth than I remember from the wines we enjoyed in Italy. This single-vineyard wine deserves its “Riserva” designation. It is one of five different Ruchè wines that Ferraris produces. We are especially looking forward to trying the flagship Opera Prima Riserva.

Ferraris Agricola takes Ruchè and its history very seriously. Luca Ferraris, a.k.a. “Mr. Ruchè,” has created a Ruchè Museum that chronicles Ruchè’s history and celebrates its rebirth. We have added it to our “must-see” list for our next trip to Piemonte.

Discovering new wines or wine regions is always interesting. Re-discovering (and perhaps even rescuing) over-looked wines and regions is even more satisfying. Innovation, we are told, is especially important in today’s wine market environment. Back to the future can be part of that process.

Non-Alcoholic Wine: Three Questions

Sue and I continue exploring the world of non-alcoholic (or alcohol-removed) wines. NA wine is one of the few growing categories of wine (if it is wine — see below), so it makes sense to see what’s going on. That’s especially true since NA beer and spirits are booming, too. Here is our report, which examines NA wine from three perspectives.

On Trade: What Does an NA Wine Bar Look Like?

It has become easy to order non-alcoholic beer at a bar or restaurant — there is almost always at least one NA beer option available — and NA cocktails (a.k.a. mocktails) are ubiquitous. But NA wine remains hard to find (at least for us) in on-trade settings. I wonder what an NA wine bar would look like and who would go there?

I stumbled on the answer to this question a few weeks ago when I was researching French Bloom, the upscale line of NA wines that caught the eye of  LVMH, the French luxury conglomerate. French Bloom is in limited distribution at this stage and the website features a map of the world to guide you to on- and off-trade points of sale. I was surprised to discover that one of the relatively few U.S. sellers was just a few miles from The Wine Economist world headquarters in Tacoma, Washington.

Soulberry Coffee House and Dry Speakeasy is located about mid-way between the University of Washington/Tacoma campus and the Tacoma Dome district. It is a warm, inviting space that sort of reminds me of a cross between the family pubs that we knew when we lived in England and the original Starbucks concept of the “third space” that’s neither home nor workplace.  Soulberry bills itself as an “all-ages after-hours safe space” and that seems pretty accurate.

Soulberry’s owner, Terri Quintana-Jessen, says that she’s a coffee roaster, but Sue and I quickly noticed how much she talked about community and relationships. Coffee brings people together, which must be one of the reasons she is so interested in it. Wine brings people together, too, but alcohol can keep people apart.

Because NA wine is NA, selling and serving it doesn’t come with the burdens and regulations that must be considered for alcoholic beverages. Terri studied up on NA wine, spirits, and beer, and soon her coffee shop was also a bottle shop and “dry speakeasy” featuring a rotating selection of almost 40 NA cocktails. The French Bloom is popular as the base for Sunday mimosas and NA French 75s.

Soulberry is not alone. Dry wine and spirits bars and popping up much as natural wine bars did a few years ago. Is there a NA wine bar in your town? Maybe there is and, like me, you just didn’t know it.

Is NA Wine Really Wine?

Is non-alcoholic wine really wine? I know from previous columns that many readers believe that wine isn’t wine without alcohol. Studies have even shown that some consumers base their buying decisions on the amount of alcohol they can get for their money (more is better!). It is certainly the case that fermentation (which produces alcohol) is necessary for the transformation of juice into wine. But, once alcohol is removed, is the resulting product still wine?

Although opinions may vary, the use of the term “wine” is defined by regulations and therefore differs in different jurisdictions. Some producers are keen to call their NA products wine because they see a market opportunity. With sales of full-strength stagnant or falling, it makes sense to go after a share of the growing NA beverage market. But other producers think it important to defend the term “wine” from being debased or diluted, which might be a slippery slope.

It is interesting to observe the evolution of this debate in Italy, where it has been illegal to affix the name “wine” to anything with less than 8 percent abv. As Wein.plus reported a few weeks ago, The Italian Ministry of Agriculture has recently revised its regulations to allow de-alcoholized wines to use the term “wine,” but not for wines with protected designations. So you can have NA red wine from Tuscany, but not NA Chianti because Chianti is a protected appellation. This explains why the NA Mionetto wine that we found at Total Wine was labeled “sparkling non-alcoholic wine” and not “NA Prosecco.” Of course, the Mionetto brand is so closely connected to Prosecco that a mental association is almost impossible to avoid.

Before the new ruling, Italian winemakers could only call their NA products wine for export purposes. The use of “wine” was reserved for alcoholic wine at home. NA wine regulations are evolving with different interests pushing to liberalize the rules and others pushing back. But the question — is it really wine? — is ultimately up to you to decide.

That said, the OIV recently highlighted its work on dealcoholization of wine, which dates back to a 2012 resolution. The January 8, 2025, press release explains that,

Adopted in 2012 at the 35th World Congress of Vine and Wine in Izmir, Türkiye, OIV-OENO 394A-2012 “Dealcoholisation of wines” includes prescriptions to obtain vitivinicultural products with a reduced or low alcohol content through partial vacuum evaporation, membrane techniques, and distillation. It also specifies that this process must not be used on wines with any organoleptic defects and must be overseen by an oenologist or specialized technician.

The OIV’s framework for wine dealcoholisation provides producers with tools to innovate while navigating technical and market complexities. This progression supports the industry’s goal of quality and authenticity in a changing consumer landscape.

Can NA Wine Pass the “Second Glass Test”?

Sue and I have been trying NA wines and putting them to the “Second Glass Test.” We ask that NA wines (1) remind us of the wines that they represent and (2) be tasty enough that we would welcome a second glass. Our early research was full of failures. Either the wines didn’t remind us of the alcoholic version or they just weren’t to our taste. Often they were flat, lacking the fruit or aroma that were lost in the de-alcoholization process.

That Mionetto sparkler mentioned above did pretty well in the “Second Glass Test,” for example. It reminded us of Prosecco in a general way (could have done with a little more fruit and acidity), but was very nice to drink and was priced in the general range of Mionetto’s regular sparkling wines. We finished the bottle over dinner. The bubbles in NA sparkling wine come from carbonation, not the fermentation process, and in general we’ve found them to be more successful than still NA wines.

Recently Sue and I have been testing NA wines from Chavin Zéro, a French winery that has been in this business since 2010. The wines are being introduced in the U.S. market now by importer Kobrand. These NA wines were created to solve the same problem as French Bloom: what’s a wine lover to drink when she’s pregnant?

Pierre Chavin makes wines in France including a line of NA wines called Chavin Zèro. We focused on two still wines from Chavin Zéro, a Rosé and a Sauvignon Blanc. The Sauvignon Blanc came first and Sue declared it to be probably the best NA still wine we’ve tried so far even though it didn’t line up with our idea of Sauvignon Blanc. (To be fair, there is no universal definition of how a Sauvignon Blanc should taste and smell.) But it was very nice to drink and had better than average fruit and mouthfeel, probably because it contains 12 percent grape juice (concentrated grape must). We’ll add it to our list.

We were intrigued by the very pale pink Chavin Zèro Rosé, which features both an attractive bottle and an interesting blend of Cinsault, Syrah, and Grenache grapes. It was probably the most interesting and confusing wine we have tried so far. It was tasty for sure — no problem with the second glass. And it had the aromas, fruit, and mouthfeel that we have been looking for but seldom finding. But it didn’t taste like any Rosé we’ve ever had. The winery’s tasting note said to expect aromas of yellow fruit and white flowers. You don’t see “yellow fruit” very often in wine descriptions. Maybe the flavor was yellow plum? We couldn’t decide. Sue said it was more like wine, and likely was the best in terms of providing the complete package, but it didn’t remind us of Rosé or any other particular wine.

20 Years Behind Beer?

We finally opened the bottle of French Bloom sparkling wine that we bought at the Soulberry bottle shop. As we reported a few weeks ago, this wine has received a lot of press because of a connection to the Taittinger Champagne family and a highly-publicized recent investment by the LVMH wine, spirits, and luxury brands group. Terri at Soulberry said that her customers gave it high marks.

We shared our bottle of the sparkling blend of Chardonnay and a bit of Pinot Noir with two winemaker friends. Sue and I found the French Bloom to be dry and drinkable, but lacking some of the body, fruit, and aroma that we look for but often fail to find in NA wines. It would be a good base for the kinds of NA wine cocktails that Soulberrry serves.

I think we would have been more impressed by French Bloom when we started our research, but now we expect more, especially for the premium $40-plus price.

The NA wine, beer, and spirits category is growing (see graph), albeit from a low base, and there is a lot of research going on. A recent Economist article charts the market changes and suggests that, while NA wine might be 20 years behind the much more successful NA beer category, it might not take 20 years for it to catch up. Fingers crossed that NA wine drinkers (and producers) will find their respective sweet spots soon.

2025: Wine & the Age of Uncertainty

The Unified Wine & Grape Symposium, North America’s largest wine industry meeting and trade show, is only a few weeks away. I will be in Sacramento to moderate the State of the Industry session, which features an impressive lineup of wine industry experts:

  • Jeff Bitter, Allied Grape Growers
  • Glenn Proctor, The Ciatti Company
  • Stephen Rannekleiv, Rabobank
  • Danny Brager, Brager Beverage Alcohol Consulting

The panelists have decades of experience in the wine industry, which informs their analysis of current problems and future prospects. It is a tremendous opportunity to hear what the experts are thinking now and to talk about it with the other attendees.

There are many other sessions at the Unified covering all sorts of topics in winegrowing, winemaking, marketing, and business operations. I am particularly interested in the Thursday general session on Crafting a Positive Narrative: Promoting Wine in the Face of Challenges, which will be moderated by New York Times wine critic Eric Asimov. One of the biggest challenges, of course, is the rising anti-alcohol movement. Telling wine’s positive story is as difficult as it is important in the current environment.

There is something for everyone at the Unified (click here to view the complete program and click here to read the speaker bios). Sue especially appreciates the big trade show where more than 900 exhibitors will highlight what’s new in the wine industry from the biggest machines, smartest technology, and best products and services from vineyard to cellar to bottling line all the way to market.

Always the Age of Uncertainty?

I always start the State of the Industry session with a few remarks to set the stage and this year I have chosen a theme, the Age of Uncertainty. This is a time of great change in the wine industry and change makes people nervous.

Age of Uncertainty? I know what you are thinking. It is always the Age of Uncertainty in the wine business. Growing grapes is risky, making wine is risky, and selling wine is risky. There is no part of the wine business that does not have an uncertain component. Wine is a global business, too, and while global markets create opportunities they also introduce additional layers of risk.

I specialize in international and global wine markets, so I am especially concerned with how international economic policies add more layers of uncertainty to wine business today. We have been told to expect high tariffs (on wine and just about everything else) in 2025. Depending upon how they are structured, and how our trading partners react to them, tariffs can have a number of direct and indirect effects.  There’s a lot at stake and the final outcome is difficult to predict.

Indeed, the International Monetary Fund recently identified the threat of tariffs as a major global economic concern. The possibility of tariffs has driven up long-term borrowing costs around the world, according to the IMF, which will release its new report on the global economy later this week.

And this week’s Economist newspaper highlights uncertainty about tariffs and other policies as a main cause of global instability.

It is easy to see why uncertainty has spread. Will Donald Trump deport millions of people? Nobody knows. But if he succeeds inflation could jump as employers lose workers. The story is similar for tariffs, which would also increase prices. At the same time, potential Chinese counter-measures in a trade war, such as a devaluation of the yuan, could prompt a global deflationary shock.

The rising perceived risk, according to the Economist, helps explain falling bond prices, rising mortgage interest rates, and many other current trends. They say that what you don’t know won’t hurt you, but uncertainty clearly has a cost.

Not by Wine Alone

I know many people who think a tariff on imported wine would benefit American growers and producers and others who strongly oppose the idea. But it is important to remember that we aren’t talking about tariffs just on wine. Although it is hard to know right now (that uncertainty thing), it looks like the new administration will impose tariffs on most imported products from many or most of our trading partners, with the highest tax rates on China, Mexico, and Canada, the countries with whom we trade the most.

Border taxes on such a long list of imports have different effects than a tax on a specific product category like wine. That’s part of the uncertainty problem. U.S. producers may gain from protection from imports but lose from higher costs for imported supplies, equipment, and technology. Labor costs, interest costs, and insurance costs would all likely be pushed higher by rising inflation.

And U.S. tariffs aren’t the end of the story. How will other countries react? Will European nations retaliate with tariffs on U.S. wine? Probably not. I think they’d focus on spirits, not wine. Would Canada target U.S. wine? Yes, I think they might and that’s a problem because Canada is a good market for U.S. wine exports.

The  Dollar Also Rises

President Trump favors a falling dollar value on foreign exchange markets because that would reinforce his trade policy by discouraging imports and promoting exports. But tariffs tend to push the dollar higher as we have seen since the election results were announced. The dollar’s value rises when it sounds like tariffs will be used as a blunt weapon to keep out imports. The dollar falls, however, when the rhetoric suggests tariffs as targeted strategic tools to gain specific concessions. Which way will tariff policy lean in 2025? I don’t know, do you?

How are tariffs and the dollar related? Here’s one way. Tariffs tend to increase inflation, which forces the Federal Reserve to keep interest rates higher than they otherwise would be. This attracts foreign capital that boosts the dollar’s value, making imports cheaper in dollar terms and U.S. exports less competitive abroad.

Immigrant policies are the third element of the Age of Uncertainty for wine in my analysis. It is too soon to know how border controls and deportations might affect labor both generally and in industries such as agriculture and construction that are most exposed. So wine’s Age of Uncertainty is a complicated matter.What’s the bottom line? I’m saving that for the State of the Industry session.

Galbraith’s Uncertainty Principle

Why did I choose this theme for my remarks? The idea was inspired by an old book that strikes me as still relevant today. The Age of Uncertainty is the title of a 1977 BBC/KCTS television series and an accompanying book by the distinguished Harvard economist John Kenneth Galbraith. The book and videos, which survey two hundred years of economic history and the history of economics, were timed to coincide with the 200th anniversary of Adam Smith’s Wealth of Nations.

People tend to remember Galbraith as the sophisticated author, public intellectual, and Harvard professor that he became, but his personal story is more complicated. He grew up on his family’s small Ontario farm and seemed set for a farming career, graduating from Ontario Agricultural College in 1931. But the 1930s were not the best of times for farming and Galbraith soon found himself doing PhD studies in agricultural economics at the University of California and then working for the U.S. federal government’s Agricultural Adjustment Agency (AAA) trying to prop up farm prices.

I don’t think that wine is mentioned even once in Galbraith’s book, but his agricultural background and experiences are easy to trace. The world has changed a lot in the almost 50 years since The Age of Uncertainty first appeared (and nearly 250 years since Wealth of Nations), but American winegrowers and agriculture generally can certainly relate to Galbraith’s story and the concerns he expressed in this book.

Shattering Stereotypes: High-Elevation California Wines

Stereotypes are powerful things because they shape the way we perceive reality even when we know they differ from what we see with our own eyes. That was the message of Saul Steinberg’s famous 1976 New Yorker magazine cover, “The View of the World from 9th Avenue.” It is important to have occasional attitude checks to make sure that stereotypes and prejudices haven’t seized control.

It is pretty easy to stereotype California wines. The Saul Steinburg picture (you might call it “The View from Highway 29”) would feature Napa Valley up front and in detail. And you know what the wines would be: bottles of big, bold Cabernet Sauvignon. Sonoma would be visible in the middle distance, but most of the other wine regions and most of their wines would pretty much disappear except for a few famous landmarks, the way that the rest of America disappears in the 9th Avenue view.

Steinberg’s image suggests that New Yorkers of his day didn’t understand America and probably didn’t understand New York, either. That’s how stereotypes work. The same rule holds for California and wine. So here are two California wineries that break the imaginary mold. What do they have in common? High elevation is one factor, but not the only one. We hope their stories will encourage us all to rethink the shorthand stereotypes we assign to California wines and to wines from everywhere else, too.

Mt. Veeder Renaissance: Sky Vineyards

If you’ve visited Napa Valley more than once there is a good chance you’ve driven up one of the winding roads on Mt. Veeder, probably to visit the historic Hess Collection winery (a top Napa tourist destination). You know that it is rugged territory and not the most obvious place to plant grapevines. The best locations are high enough up the mountainside to be above the fog line. Although it is the largest Napa sub-AVA by total area, the vineyard acreage and wine production numbers are small.

It is almost a miracle that someone could look at this region back in the 1970s (early days in modern Napa history) and imagine vineyards and a winery, but that’s what happened at Sky Vineyards, specializing in dry-framed Zinfandel and Syrah. It was an even bigger miracle that that vision survived the 2017 wildfires. But the Olds family rebuilt their home, replanted vineyards, and resolved to come back both stronger and also different (with Grenache, Riesling, and Chenin Blanc as well as signature Zinfandel).

We were fortunate to be able to sample both the new from Sky Vineyards (their 2022 Riesling) and the old (the Zinfandel from that 2017 vintage).  Sue was surprised and impressed by the Riesling. This is the pure essence of Riesling, she said. A wonderful treat. But the Zinfandel was even better. So bright and complex and full of life. It was one of the most memorable wines we tasted in 2024.

A miracle that a wine like this could come from the vintage of the dreadful wildfires. The image of a phoenix rising from the ashes is a cliché, I know, but it really does seem to apply to Sky Vineyards and its wines.

Sky Vineyards shatters the stereotype you might have of Napa Valley and its wines. The view from Mt. Veeder looks a lot different than that Highway 29 perspective you might know best.

Lake County Surprise: Brassfield Estate

Lake County is a bit of a puzzle. Winegrowing is important, but the area might be better known to many for Clear Lake and its recreational appeal. You can find Clear Lake AVA on wine labels if you look closely, but a lot of the grapes disappear into California appellation blends. Quantity was the path to profits for many years simply because grape prices were low. Now it seems that rising quality is key. But it is hard to establish a reputation when you have famous wine neighbors such as Napa and Sonoma a short distance away.

Brassfield Estate winery is located in the High Valley AVA, a  Lake County sub-appellation. High elevation and volcanic soils define the region, producing wines of power and elegance that demand close attention. The Cabernet Sauvignon, a multi-vineyard blend, was deep and complex and a terrific value, too.

The star of the tasting was the Brassfield Estate Pinot Noir, which came as a complete surprise to us. The winery describes the terroir this way:

These grapes are sourced from four vineyard blocks nestled within a westward-facing box canyon. Strategically positioned beneath a saddle in the ridge, the descent of cool coastal air from the west makes this the coolest vineyard site in High Valley. This vineyard thrives on soil formed from ancient lakeshore and alluvial deposits.

The wine tasted of rhubarb and pomegranate, with the balance of fruit and acidity that the description suggests. It wasn’t a Sonoma Pinot Noir and it wasn’t a Willamette Valley Pinot either. It was itself. That’s what we are always looking for. What a nice surprise to find it and in Lake County, of all places.

The Sky Vineyards and Brassfield Estate wines we tasted forced us to rethink stereotypes, which is always a good thing. If you think of Napa as the California standard, for example, Brassfield Estate will make you realize that wines of high quality can come from other parts of the state (and be purchased for much more affordable prices). And Sky Vineyards will make you question what you even mean by a Napa wine.

There’s a lot of research left to do if you want to shatter the stereotypes of California wine. Get started now!

What Are Your Holiday Wines This Year?

The Wine Economist will pause for a few days and return in early 2025. Sue and I wish all our reader friends a warm holiday season and a bright new year.

Sue is curious about what wines you are serving for the holidays. Are you willing to share your selections — or those you are considering — in the Comments section below? We are always looking for good ideas!

We haven’t finalized our choices yet, but some will be Italian wines to pair with Brodetto on Christmas Eve and Tagliatelle al Ragù on Christmas Day. Stilton and Vintage Port will appear along with Sue’s delicious panforte and pampepato treats. And something with bubbles, too, don’t you think? Lots of possibilities!

Cheers to the new year. See you in 2025.

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About the Luca Ferraris Ruchè in the photo above in the festive santa hat. We were fortunate to receive Ruchè samples recently (thank you, Mallard Libations). This is a unique wine so we are giving some thoought to food pairings. I have called Ruchè one of Italy’s “invisible wines.” Sue and I look forward to enjoying these examples and we hope to see more of the wines in shops and restaurants in the new year!

 

 

Understudy to Center Stage: The Unexpected Rise of Cabernet Franc

Wine made from Cabernet Franc is generally paler, lighter, crisper, softer, and more obviously aromatic than that of its progeny, Cabernet Sauvignon.

This is how the authors of Wine Grapes, my standard reference, describe Cabernet Franc. Sounds great, doesn’t it? So it is a bit of a surprise that Cabernet Franc’s place in French wine is relatively limited.

France: Two Faces of Cab Franc

Cabernet Franc is the headline red wine grape in the Loire Valley, but in Bordeaux (and most other places) it is best known as a blending grape (or an insurance grape, I am told, because it buds and blossoms earlier than Cabernet Sauvignon and so helps winegrowers hedge their bets against unfavorable weather). Apart from Chateau Cheval Blanc and a few other BDX wines, Cab Franc is a backup singer behind Cabernet Sauvignon.

I think I first began to pay attention to Cabernet Franc about 15 years ago when I found myself helping Mike and Karen Wade on the bottling line at their Fielding Hills Winery (my report on the experience was the very first Wine Economist newsletter post). All the wines, made with grapes sourced from their Riverbend Vineyard on the Wahluke Slope, were great. But the Cab Franc really blew me away. It was then and remains now my favorite FHW wine.

Cab Franc was suddenly a thing to us and Sue and I started to wonder if maybe it was a Washington state wine thing. We got this idea from Chris Carmada, winemaker and proprietor at the Andrew Will Winery on nearby Vashon Island. Carmada said that Cab Franc might be Washington’s best red wine grape variety and Andrew Will makes the most of its exceptional quality in both their varietal wines and in the vineyard-specific blends.

This video tells the story of Andrew Will Winery and its particular affinity with Cabernet Franc. We also admire the elegant Cab Franc that Robin Pollard makes from her vineyard in the Rattlesnake Hills (a.k.a. “The Hills”) area.

Once we started looking for northwest Cabernet Franc we began to find it in unexpected places. The Rocks of Milton-Freewater is a famous AVA on the Washington-Oregon border. It is best known for the Syrah and Grenache wines that wineries such as Cayuse and Reynvaan make from the vines there. So we were surprised to find that Watermill Winery makes a terrific “Hallowed Stones” Cabernet Franc from their rocky estate vineyard, very different from Andrew Will, Pollard, or Fielding Hills. Distinctive.

Many Faces of Cabernet Franc

Looking further afield we stumbled across our first Napa Valley Cab Franc, the Ehlers Estate Cabernet Franc St. Helena, Napa Valley. Cab is King in Napa Valley, but Cabernet Franc is an unexpected discovery. This wine had the power and depth that you expect from Napa (15% abv, 18 months in oak) with the slight green edge that said Cab Franc not Cab Sauvignon. Sue liked it but said that the Napa style almost dominated the Cab Franc character.

Recently we’ve been learning more about the wine industries in Virginia and the Niagara Peninsula in Canada and discovered that Cab Franc plays important roles in both places. Barboursville Vineyards is probably our favorite Virginia winery (it was featured in my book Around the World in Eighty Wines) and its Barboursville Cabernet Franc Reserve is both great quality and great value.

Cabernet Franc is one of the most important red grape varieties for Niagara producers. We visited the region earlier this year and enjoyed tasting wines at Leaning Post Wines and Westcott Vineyards. Both focus on Pinot Noir and Chardonnay, which do very well in that region, but both wineries also make exceptional Cab Franc wines inspired by the grape’s ability to express the character of particular sites.

The idea that Cabernet Franc is or could be a terroir wine — a wine that reflects its particular vineyard characteristics — comes as a surprise if you are used to thinking about it as a useful but secondary blending grape. Further study is required to explore this idea.

So we are starting to look for Cabernet Franc wines from Argentina. We know from our visits there that the differences in terroir, especially elevation, can be important. Malbec from Lujan de Cuyo can be very different from Malbec from the higher-elevation Uco Valley. So we are excited to taste the Durigutti Proyecto Las Compuertas Cabernet France (from Lujan de Cuyo) alongside the Bodega Andeluna Pasionado Cabernet Franc from Uco Valley vineyards situated at an even higher elevation 1300 meters above sea level.

Cab Franc World

It seems to me that Cabernet Franc has quietly exploded on the wine scene. Maybe it was always there and I just overlooked it. But maybe those qualities I found in Wine Grapes have become more important to wine drinkers. According to Wine Grapes, Cab Franc can be found almost everywhere: Northeast Italy, Spain, Romania, Hungary, Argentina, and Chile have significant plantings of the grape variety and there are patches of Cab Franc vines almost everywhere else. Even on Malta!

There is clearly a lot of work to be done to chart the Cab Franc universe. Once upon a time, Cabernet Franc was Cabernet Sauvignon’s shy understudy that has now taken center stage, at least some of the time. Either way, let’s celebrate Cabernet Franc.

From Sharecroppers to Superstars: Family Wineries in Italy

The arc of the Italian wine industry bends towards quality in the 21st century, something that has become increasingly clear to Sue and me as we have visited many of Italy’s important wine regions in recent years.

Quality has not always been Italian wine’s guiding star, however. Piero Antinori’s 2014 book The Hills of Chianti traces the 20th-century transformation of Italian wine from quantity to quality that continues today. The role of forward-thinking family wineries and their intense focus on quality from the vineyard to the cellar and beyond comes through on every page.

We recently sampled wines from two of our favorite regions — Romagna and Piemonte — that illustrate Antinori’s hypothesis about the link between quality and family-owned wineries.

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Rediscovering Romagna

I was reminded of Antinori’s book recently when we were invited to taste wines from Romagna, a region that extends from the Adriatic coast inward toward Bologna. We enjoyed these wines, mainly Sangiovese di Romagna and Albana di Romagna, when we lived in Bologna years ago (I was a visiting professor at the Johns Hopkins center there).

The wines were perfect with the city’s rich cuisine. We look for them here in America, but they are hard to find. I once asked one of the Colli Bolognesi winemakers about the problem and he just pointed over the hill. Tuscany, he said. Tuscany (and Antinori, I guess) get all the attention. We mostly sell our wines at home.

But the bending arc can have many effects and it seems to me that the rising quality of Italian wine offers wine drinkers around the world new opportunities, both within Tuscany (as Antinori’s book suggests) and in other parts of Italy, too.

All in the Family

So we were excited to taste the Romagna wines of Poggio della Dogana and Ronchi di Castelluccio, wineries owned by the brothers Aldo and Paolo Rametta. The Rametta family does not have centuries of history in the wine business like the Antinori family, but they are firmly rooted in the Romagna region. After working in other industries (finance and renewable energy), Aldo and Paolo Rametta found it impossible to resist scratching the itch to return home to work with the land. Wine, of course, but not just wine. They are interested in agriculture and bring family business values to their work.

Poggio della Dogana was their first investment in 2016; then an unexpected opportunity appeared in 2020 to purchase Ronchi di Castelluccio, the very well-known maker of Sangiovese di Romagna. We know the latter winery because their Le More Sangiovese di Romagna is a wine we can sometimes find here at home to pair with Sue’s authentic Bolognese ragu.

Everybody and Nobody

We couldn’t resist sampling the Ronchi di Castelluccio Buco del Prete Romagna DOC Sangiovese Modigliana, made with grapes from a vineyard carved into a forest clearing in 1989. We paired the wine with roast chicken (which we often have with Pinot Noir) and I think the combination made us appreciate the elegance of the medium-bodied wine and the complexity that lingered on the finish. An excellent wine. We can’t wait to try the Ronco della Simia, made with grapes from an even older vineyard.

We loved the Sangiovese, but I admit that the Poggio della Dogana Belladamaa Romagna DOCG Albana Secco stole our hearts. Why? Quality was part of the answer, of course. Albana is a white wine that thinks it is red, with good body and memorable herby notes on the finish in the case of the Belladama.

We often enjoyed Albana wines when we lived in Bologna, but we always thought of it as a simple, easy wine, not something that can be serious. So tasting a next-level Albana got our attention.

But, if I am honest, it is also something that Aldo Rametta said on a Zoom call. Everyone drinks Albana in Romagna, he said, but no one drinks it anywhere else. And it is true. But maybe a wine like this at a time like this can change things. In fact, quality white wines from up and down Italy are now finally getting attention and developing followings in export markets.

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Tenuta Carretta was founded in 1467 when sharecropping arrangements were formalized for the estate north of the city of Alba. As Antinori’s book explains, sharecropping remained the dominant organization for Italian agriculture into the mid-20th century and in wine the turn towards quality only gained strength when the difficult transition from sharecropping was complete. In all its long history the Carretta estate has changed hands only a few times. The winery’s website explains that

In 1811, after 350 years, the property passed from the Marquis Damiano to the Count of Roero, who cultivated it for 120 years. In 1932, he gave the estate to the Veglia family of Turin. In 1985, the property finally passed to the Miroglio family from Alba, founders and owners of the textile group with the same name.

The Miroglio family’s commitment to the winery strikes me as very much fitting into Antinori’s ethos and the Rametta brothers’ work in Romagna. The Miroglio family have roots in the Langhe. Their apparel empire began there before expanding around the world. Their purchase of Tenuta Carretta almost 40 years ago seems to have been about family and tradition and they have invested considerable time and effort to develop distinctive wines that reflect the particular terroirs of Roero and the Alta Langa. Each wine is meant to be unique to its time and place, to bend the arc even more toward the quality pole.

Tenuta Carretta makes the great red wine varieties of  Piedmont, so it is noteworthy that the samples they sent us were white wines: the Roero Arneis DOCG Riserva “Alteno della Fontana” and the Langhe DOC Riesling “Campofranco.”  Interest is rising in white wines these days and many consumers are searching for distinctive wines, so we welcomed the opportunity to taste these wines.

The Roero Arneis DOCG Riserva was a wonderful wine, refined and elegant. It is a proper reserve wine having spent 24 months aging on lees and a further year resting in bottle. The Riesling was a completely different experience, however.

You might be surprised to see a Riesling from Piemonte, but we know a few other Piemonte winemakers who produce Riesling because they just love this noble grape variety and cannot resist the temptation to see what it will produce here. It seems that a great deal of effort was necessary to make this Riesling a reality. A special terroir was discovered in a long-abandoned vineyard area (“franco” in the name “Campofranco” means “unused”). It is kind of extreme terroir and the cellar treatment is distinctive, too. The result is a wine that Sue said she wouldn’t have guessed to be a Riesling. Lots of minerality, a whiff of petrol that quickly disappeared. Fascinating and delicious. Kinda wild, too. Worth seeking out as are all the Tenuta Carretta wines we have tried.

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At the end of Piero Antinori’s book, he peers into the future and sees the outlines of what is recognizably the wine world of today, where consumption quantities are falling, wine quality is rising, the family wine firms are stronger than ever. He was right about quality and about the challenges he saw ahead for the wine market generally. Time will tell how family wineries fare in the global and local market adjustments that lie ahead. These seem like just the sort of challenges that family wineries are built for.